Ayushi Singh visits the timeless city of Varanasi
India has always attracted travelers in search of something more than just landscapes and monuments. For many, it offers a kind of emotional and spiritual connection that stays with you long after you return home. Among the countless places across this vast country, the city of “Varanasi” holds a unique place not just on the map, but in the hearts of those who visit
Ghats Varanasi – Ganges River
Often described as the spiritual capital of India, Varanasi is located on the banks of the River Ganges and is believed to be one of the world’s oldest living cities. Its name appears in ancient texts, and its streets continue to echo the traditions and rituals that have taken place there for thousands of years.
A city older than time?
Varanasi also known by its ancient name ‘Kashi’ is believed to be over 3,000 years old, though some local traditions claim it predates even that. It is considered the spiritual capital of India and holds a sacred place in Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism.
In Hindu belief, the city was founded by Lord Shiva, one of the principal deities, and is seen as a place of enlightenment and liberation. Every day, thousands bathe in the River Ganges, seeking to wash away sins, while many others bring the ashes of loved ones, hoping to set their souls free.
The city where life and death meet
In Varanasi, life and death are not kept apart. They are visible, side by side, in a way that may feel unfamiliar to many visitors from Western cultures. It is a city where the funeral pyres burn near the river as prayers are chanted a few steps away. While this may sound unsettling at first, for locals, it is simply part of the cycle of existence.
According to Hindu belief, Varanasi is the holiest place to die, as it offers the soul a chance to escape the cycle of rebirth. Families often bring their elderly or ill loved ones to the city to spend their final days. Death here is not feared, but accepted. It is treated not as an end, but as a return.
This deep respect for both beginnings and endings shapes much of the city’s atmosphere. It’s common to see early morning prayers taking place just metres away from cremation ceremonies. And yet, there’s a sense of peace throughout.
A city that lives by the river
Varanasi sits on the banks of the River Ganges, which Indians call “Ganga Maa” or Mother Ganges. This river is more than a waterway. It is sacred, believed to carry the prayers and hopes of millions. Every morning, as the sun rises, people gather by the river’s edge to bathe, pray, or light small lamps that float gently on the water.
It is here, on the stone steps called ghats, that the heart of the city beats. You’ll see everything – young boys diving into the water, elderly men sitting in quiet meditation, and women offering flowers in silence. Life and death meet here without fear or fuss. Everything is part of a cycle, and the river carries it all.
The Ghats: the city’s open heart
The Ganges River is the center of daily life in Varanasi. Lining its banks are the city’s famous “ghats”, broad stone steps that lead from the streets down to the river. Some ghats are used for bathing or performing rituals, others for meditation, and a few for cremations.
No two ghats feel the same. Some are quiet and still, while others are filled with movement and sound. The most well-known, “Dashashwamedh Ghat”, is where the daily evening ceremony known as the “Ganga Aarti” takes place. Priests perform an elaborate ritual using fire, incense, and bells as an offering to the river. Locals and visitors gather along the steps or sit in boats to watch. It’s not a tourist show, it’s a sacred moment that draws in anyone who’s present.
Nearby is “Manikarnika Ghat”, where funeral rites are carried out around the clock. For many travellers, this ghat offers a deeply moving experience. It is not about curiosity, but about understanding a different relationship with mortality. Here, there is no attempt to hide grief, nor to dramatise it. It is simply a part of life.
The narrow streets
Away from the ghats, the old city is a maze of winding alleys, ancient temples, and tiny shops selling everything from silk saris to sweets. It is easy to get lost here, and most visitors do at some point…but that’s part of the experience. The city doesn’t open up all at once. It reveals itself gradually, through small conversations, quiet corners, and unexpected moments.
The people of Varanasi are deeply connected to their faith. It is not unusual to see someone pause in the middle of a busy street to touch the feet of a small shrine or whisper a quick prayer. Ritual is not saved for special occasions it is woven into everyday life.
There is also a rich tradition of music, art, and scholarship in the city. Many classical Indian musicians and spiritual teachers have come from or spent time in Varanasi. The city has long been a centre for learning, especially in Sanskrit and philosophy.
You may find yourself sitting next to a local priest who casually explains the meaning behind a chant, or watching people rush past on their way to daily rituals. While the slow sounds of a sitar once drifted through the air, today it’s more likely the honk of a rickshaw or the hum of temple bells that fills the background. Life here moves faster than it once did, but the spiritual undercurrent still flows quietly beneath the noise.
A city that cooks with heart
What sets Varanasi’s food apart isn’t just the recipes. It’s the care. Most of the food is made fresh, by hand, often right in front of you. Whether it’s a plate from a roadside stall or a dish in a family kitchen, you can taste the time, tradition, and love in every bite.
For older travellers especially, the food in Varanasi offers comfort and curiosity in equal measure. It tells the story of a city that honours both ritual and joy, one spoonful at a time.
A morning worth waking up for
Start your day in Varanasi and you will quickly notice the scent of fried dough in the air. The locals swear by ‘kachori-sabzi’ a dish made of puffed, crispy bread served with a spicy potato curry. It is hearty, warm, and eaten early. No fancy cutlery, no elaborate setting, just a small shop, a steel plate, and the sound of conversation in the background.
Most shops making this dish have been doing so for generations. The recipes are not written down. They live in the hands of the cook, passed from mother to daughter or father to son.
Pair this breakfast with some pieces of jalebi, a bright orange sweet spiral soaked in sugar syrup, crunchy on the outside and soft within. Sweet and spicy in the same meal – Varanasi’s way of balancing the flavours of life.
The tea culture
No day in Varanasi is complete without chai. Served in small, handleless cups, it’s strong, sweet, and cooked over open flames in large pots. Each cup is a pause in the day. You might find yourself sitting beside a shopkeeper or a priest, quietly enjoying the same tea.
Many elderly visitors love this part of Varanasi, the way tea brings people together. There’s no hurry. People talk, smile, and simply sit. It’s a moment of calm, not just caffeine.
Conversations that stay with you
One of the most memorable parts of a visit to Varanasi is the people you meet. Unlike places where tourism feels separate from daily life, here it is often woven in. You may end up having tea with a silk shop owner who tells you about the generations of weavers in his family, or speak with a boatman who explains why he prays before each ride.
Some of the most meaningful conversations come from people who have come to Varanasi not to work or guide, but to reflect. You may meet a woman from South India who brought her mother’s ashes to the river, or a young man studying ancient texts, or a European visitor quietly sitting at the ghat each morning, watching the sunrise.
These are not people seeking escape or entertainment. They are people, like you, who are looking for meaning. And often, they find it not in loud answers, but in the quiet awareness that there is something deeply human about this city and its rhythms.
A Different Kind of Journey
Travelling to Varanasi is not like going to a tourist spot with sights to tick off a list. It’s about observation, stillness, and reflection. There is noise and colour, certainly but there is also a kind of slowness that invites you to pay closer attention.
Many who come here say they begin by being an outsider, but slowly feel something shift. Whether you join in a ritual or not, whether you sit by the river in silence or speak with locals, the experience tends to stay with you.
It is not a city that teaches through signs or explanations. It teaches by being itself. And for many older visitors, it offers a chance to connect with some of life’s deeper questions without needing quick answers.
The meaning of Varanasi
What makes Varanasi special isn’t just its age or its rituals. It is the way it holds opposites together: joy and sorrow, noise and calm, celebration and farewell. In many parts of the world, death is kept hidden, and grief is managed quietly. In Varanasi, it is met with ritual, music, prayer, and acceptance.
At the same time, life carries on. Children play, people bargain at markets, students attend classes, and marriages are celebrated with flowers and dancing. It’s all happening at once. And somehow, it all fits.
If you’re someone who believes that travel should offer more than just photos and souvenirs, Varanasi may offer exactly that. It is not always easy to describe. But for many, it becomes a place they remember not just with their minds, but with their hearts.
