Lorna Hogg guides you around the Somerset city forever associated with the celebrated Regency author
If you enjoy visiting or reading about the home patch of a favourite writer, you may note how often stories are set against a physical background, and just how important that can be to the book. Whether featuring its characters against sylvan pastures, or tough, impoverished cities and towns – background can clearly be a powerful influence on the experiences – and writing, of many of our favourite authors.
They can be inspired, shocked, angered or intrigued or by their surroundings, to the extent that the two become inseparable. One such writer, of course, is Jane Austen. Despite the fact that she used various settings for her books, Austen will forever be linked to the spa town of Bath, in the South West of England. Somewhat ironically, however, Jane’s time in Bath was challenging at times. Her wider family remained wealthy, but after her clergyman father’s retirement, the family developed financial difficulties. This gave her writing a subtle edge, which only added to its appeal.
Jane’s family moved to the idyllic eighteenth century spa town of Bath, which nestled in the picturesque Cotswold, when her clergyman father found life a financial challenge after retirement, and decided on a fresh start. Jane’s wealthy aunt and uncle lived in one of the grandest areas of Bath – the still sought after and very expensive Paragon. Jane’s first Bath visit was in 1797, and she would later use some of her Bath experiences, living in several different houses and areas during her time there.
Bath, of course has a history much older than its Georgian fame, dating back to King Blad, who was cured of leprosy here. The Romans developed the Aqua Sulis, and visitors have ranged from bishops to royalty. One reason why Bath has continued to flourish over the centuries is its ability to adapt, change and develop – the latest in 2006 has been the Thermae Bath Spa. People initially came to use the mineral springs to cure a range of complaints – hence the early spa function of – “taking the cure’ or `taking the water,’ which became fashionable in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. However, visitors also needed to be entertained in this rural area – and theatres, concerts and balls attracted the wealthy. Within easy reach of London, it soon became very popular, a fact not lost on Highwaymen!
The splendid Royal Crescent
The city was much smaller then, but thanks to careful preservation, visitors can still enjoy the largely unspoiled eighteenth century city, which still has a hotel known to Jane – The Francis. Homes, some set on Bath’s famous crescents, appear to crawl up the beautiful surrounding slopes. When Jane’s clergyman father planned to retire, the family visited relatives in Bath, to consider their options. She would live in a variety of Bath homes – jokes have been made that she moved –socially and literally, down in the world. She started at the top of Bath – literally. The family’s first home was that of .her wealthy aunt and uncle. Their residence in The Paragon, (the name says it all!) was where Jane stayed in 1797, on her first visit. Bath soon inspired Jane. In her book, `Northanger Abbey.’ a gentle mockery of the popular Gothic novel of the times, its heroine falls for the charms of a young man in Bath. He invites her to meet his family – who assume she is an heiress. The naïve heroine soon learns to be wary of pride and greed – and learns “common sense, prudence and self-control’’.
13, Queen Square was home for Jane in both 1797 and 1799. The family returned to Bath for a stay at Sydney Place from 1801-4. It is sited near to the beautiful Beechen Cliff, where Jane liked to walk. In 1804, they moved to Green Park Buildings for a time. When her father died, however, the family’s life, finances – and locations, changed utterly. In 1805 they moved to rented rooms in No. 25 Gay Street for a year. This could truly be said to have been `coming down in the world’ – socially as well as physically. The cash strapped family lived there for year after her father’s death, However, their finances meant that they had to move to the even less expensive noisy and crowded area around No. 7, Trim Street, where they lived for a few months in 1806, before leaving Bath.
Two centuries later, visitors are still keen to experience Jane’s Bath, many during the events of the annual and internationally famed annual Jane Austen Festival. These range from `taking the waters’ and dances ( classes are available!), to balls, teas and events in the Assembly Rooms. There is plenty to celebrate this year – `Bath and Austen 2050’, celebrates two hundred and fifty years since her birthday. Age, however, has certainly not withered’ the fun. The characters in Austen’s books would recognise the Bath of today, albeit with its (slightly) modernized events.
The Assembly Rooms. Its likely Jane would have attended fashionable balls here
Visitors still attend events in the Assembly Rooms. They still `Take the Waters’ (some from the new modern dispensers) at the Pump Room – and enjoy afternoon tea, with Sally Lunns (sweet buns) . Some stay at the nineteenth century Francis Hotel, and stroll in Sydney Place Garden, When it comes to the (swiftly sold) out balls, concerts and candle lit events, they are just are particular about their costumes – period of course, for formal events. They still dance minuets and quadrilles at Balls which still take place in the Assembly Rooms. They enjoy afternoon teas – and no-one bats an eye at encountering a lady and gentleman in eighteenth century costume strolling past Marks and Spencer!
One aspect of Austen life has changed, of course. In Jane’s time, Bath was one of the most favoured – and best known, Marriage Markets in 18th century England. With a social calendar of balls, reception, teas, fireworks, anxious mamas and soon to be cash-drained Papas, provided the background for daughters to socialize, have fun and ideally marry well. Jane was well aware of this, and along with other topics which interested her, utilised the subject in her storylines. She would have gauged the competition, observed the discreet introductions, Issuing of invitations and the ever intriguing new arrivals in the city.
This year, of course, 250 years after her birth, the celebrations surrounding Jane Austen reach a new high, with a wide range of events from which to choose. At this stage, don’t count on getting tickets to the Pump Room Balls – but Austen fans and observers can have as much fun as their eighteenth century counterparts.
Taking the waters..
In the 2020s, it can be difficult for enthusiastic readers to be able to visit and admire sites, houses and landscapes which inspired favourite authors. It is even rarer to find them largely unspoiled and still retaining traces of their original purpose. Happily, Bath is one famous exception –and it is possible to still see much of Jane’s Bath, in all its Georgian aspects. Eighteenth century building and city streetscapes happily have been protected, and remain in much the same condition as would have been enjoyed by Jane. The magnificent views over the surrounding countryside remain much the same. So do the walks, public buildings, theatre – and even a nineteenth century pub, which still exist, to the delight of enthusiastic worldwide visitors. So what was Jane’s Bath like to live in and how did it inspire her?
Sally Lunns historic eating house
Jane Austen’s Bath Spa
Jane lived with her family for a couple of years at No.4 Sydney Place. One of Bath’s most desired – and desirable areas, it remains unspoilt, from references in `Persuasion’ Now with the addition of a sympathetically created canal and wrought iron bridges, both providing excellent vistas, and you can take a boat ride on the canal for another perspective, as an occasional train roars overhead.
Still going strong, the grandeur of the Pump Room was a social magnet in Jane’s day. It has now become a tourist magnet, and part of the Bath experience. The nearby Assembly Rooms were originally the site of general dancing, flirtation, and general partner scanning. Of course, in Jane’s day, this activity was not just part of the fun and relaxation of a holiday – it was a vital part of the Marriage Market, when a woman’s life and future would depend on her ability to attract – and choice of, partner. However, women to-day still like to dress up, – and when it comes to the Summer Balls held here, visitors are just as enthusiastic about their hired Regency costumes and court curtsies as they were in Regency time!
Milsom Street was – and remains, at the heart of Bath. Visitors and locals, eat, socialize and relax here – and shop at a nineteenth century department store – Jolly’s. During the day light hours, like the rest of Bath, Milsom Street is bustling and crowded. However, at dusk, as the lights come on, dusk draws in, and coach parties have gone home, it is possible to possible to stroll down Milson Street, and go back in time to Jane’s Bath.
Royal Crescent
This beautiful and internationally famous Crescent has retained it unspoiled Georgian architecture, and setting, against the skyline, sweeping down to green meadows. Sited at the top of Bath, it is mentioned in `Northanger Abbey’. Unsurprisingly it has been utilized as a locations for worldwide TV and film productions. A visit to the No.1 Royal Crescent Hotel is a must, for afternoon tea, if a stay here is beyond the budget!
Sally Lunns street food
We like to think that our generation introduced `fast’ and `’street food. However, Sally Lunns have been sold in Bath for centuries, and remain popular to this day. They were introduced by Frenchwoman, Solange Luyon, who like many Huguenots, fled the country in 1680. The Bath locals had difficulties pronouncing her name – and Sally Lunn was the result! They are based on the French brioche, and could be served hot from portable baking ovens.
Useful websites
