Eileen Casey takes a break in the popular Kerry town and recalls some of its literary connections and notable visitors
As my husband is a native (hailing from Torc, near Muckross House), Killarney is no stranger to us. We have many happy memories of holidaying there over the years, especially when our children were small. We introduced them to the delights of Torc Waterfall, Lady’s View and on further towards Sneem, where the stars at night can be truly enjoyed without any interference from other forms of lighting. Not to mention long idle afternoons fishing by the middle lake (near Muckross) and later, towards evening, into Killarney itself, where Bird’s Bazaar and its hurdy gurdies provided the evening’s entertainment. Thrills and chills galore on merri-go-rounds and chair-o-planes.
Now that the children are grown men and women, my husband and I still go to Killarney…they also go regularly, having only happy memories of the place. On this occasion, as on many others, knowing that I walked in the footsteps of some famous Romantic poets lent an added frisson. Percy Bysshe Shelley (Ode to the West Wind, To a Skylark) visited this popular southern town in 1813. Borrowing from his poem Ozymandias, ‘I met a traveller from an antique land’, indeed, we met many travellers over the course of a three day get away break. Shelley’s poetry sang in my heart as I traversed the town with purpose. I fancied I was seeing it through his ‘romantic’, literary eyes. Writing from Italy in 1818, Shelley described Lake Como as exceeding ‘anything I ever beheld in beauty, with the exception of the arbutus islands of Killarney’. Conversely, Wordsworth visited there in 1829 (no doubt with sister Dorothea in tow), finding fault with ‘the heavy shape of the highest hill, Mangerton’. Wordsworth climbed the mountain at the grand old age of 59. Tennyson’s poem The Splendour Falls was inspired by Killarney’s Ross Castle and Lough Leane. One of my own poems Margaret Atwood’s Hair is inspired by a Yew tree at Muckross Abbey. It’s spiralling upwards tendrils brought the award winning writer to mind as I’d read an article about her in that particular week’s Sunday Times. The accompanying photograph of her showed a striking hairstyle in ‘yew’ tree fashion.
Writing from Italy in 1818, Shelley described Lake Como as exceeding ‘anything I ever beheld in beauty, with the exception of the arbutus islands of Killarney’
Despite our advancing age, visiting Killarney in spring while celebrating my husband’s 70th birthday, proved illuminating and energising. It’s always that little bit milder there and despite drizzling rain, a great number of travellers thronged the town. Traditional music poured out from public houses in the evening and dining establishments appeared full. Sounds of merriment filtered onto the street and aside from the locals or those from neighbouring towns, a goodly number of international tourists swelled the crowds.
First things first. We stayed at four star The Dromhall Hotel, conveniently located 5 minutes from the town (within comfortable walking distance). The establishment itself is pristine. Spotlessly clean and tastefully decorated. The impressive staircase to the upper floors (there’s also a lift) boasts beautiful wallpaper, showing large images of Audubon’s Birds of America. Audubon’s Blue Heron and Pink Flamingo feature, a feast for the eye. The lobby itself is reminiscent of the Art Deco period, soothing the senses and providing a welcoming atmosphere. Our room was lovely, having all the required facilities. There’s also a spa and pool facility nearby the main building. Where The Dromhall excels however, is in the culinary department. We ate every evening in the restaurant, delighting in fine food, well presented and utterly delicious. Breakfast is great value. Full Irish and varied buffet for €15 in this day and age is tremendous value by any standards. For the food alone, I can recommend the hotel. It’s worthwhile keeping an eye on prices via various websites. We were there on a bank holiday weekend so that was reflected in the cost. But there are good deals to be had at different times of the year.
Spotlessly clean and tastefully decorated. The impressive staircase at the Dromhall Hotel boasts beautiful wallpaper, showing large images of Audubon’s Birds of America. Audubon’s Blue Heron and Pink Flamingo feature, a feast for the eye.
Killarney, as well as being popular with the rest of the country, is a regular hotspot for visiting celebrities. Former Manchester United forward Dwight Yorke, Hollywood A Lister Peter Gallagher (star of the ‘The OC’ and blockbusters such as ‘Sex, Lies and Videotapes,’ ‘While You Were Sleeping’ and ‘American Beauty’ to name but a few). Queen Victoria came to Muckross House in 1861, boosting the social standing of the incumbent Herbert Family. This was Victoria’s first visit to Killarney, although she’d previously visited Ireland in 1849 and 1853. The Queen was accompanied by Albert, the Prince Consort, the Prince of Wales, Prince Alfred, Princess Alice and Princess Helena.
Which brings me to Killarney House, a wonderful exhibition space also within walking distance from our hotel. In all our visits to Killarney, we hadn’t noticed its existence. Shock and horror. Previously owned by The Earl of Kenmare, when the Queen was hosted there (Monday, 26th August), the visit was regarded as a State event whereas Muckross House was private. Kerry’s Evening Post, Wednesday reported that Her Majesty ‘had declared her intention of being very quiet while at Muckross.’ But as the saying goes, ‘the cat can look at the Queen’ and we pretty much followed Victoria’s itinerary, visiting Torc Waterfall, Muckross House and Ross Castle. However, we didn’t embark at Muckross boathouse for Tomies to view a stag hunt upon the lake, nor were we met with a troop of Royal Dragoons or accompanied by a Viscount or two. Still, we felt very welcomed and appreciated wherever we went.
Tennyson’s poem The Splendour Falls was inspired by Killarney’s Ross Castle
Unfortunately, the declining fortunes of The Herbert family subsequent to Victoria’s departure, can be traced to that visit. Tapestries, mirrors, Persian carpets, silverware, musical instruments, linen, china and servants’ uniforms were all commissioned for the occasion. The curtains, which still hang in the dining room of Muckross House, were specially woven, probably in Paris. In return for such largesse, before departing Muckross, Victoria gifted Mrs Mary Herbert with a bracelet of gold, pearls and diamonds. Mary’s daughters Eleanor and Blanche also received a piece of jewellery. The Royal Collections at Windsor Castle contains three water colours by Mary Herbert. It’s presumed these were presented to the Queen on her departure. The Herberts alas didn’t receive the titles they’d hoped for.
Victorian botanists flocked to Killarney also. The birth of the industrial age allowed those wealthy enough to pursue more intellectual pursuits, a new appreciation of nature. The beauty and diversity of different landscapes surrounding Killarney attracted collectors from Britain and Europe. The lush habitats around the lakes offered the prospect of new finds. They also came in search of “Killarney Fern” (Trichomanes speciosum). The fern is known to have a mythical status among Irish and British botanists. However, due to its ethereal beauty, it has an unfortunate history of being over-collected. It’s now protected by EU law. The location of any sites are top secret and preciously guarded. Speaking of closely guarded secrets, Killarney house, for us, has been one of the best kept secrets in Killarney. How had we not come across it before? Perhaps because we tend to stray towards Muckross House and Muckross Abbey rather than towards the town and its environs? In any case, it’s a treasure, filled with interactive exhibitions of the area, gorgeous photography. The website claims that the “ ‘Golden Gates’ that stand guard at the entrance form a portal to the wonders of the National Park beyond. As you pass through these (black!) gates, the sounds of the town fade away and the magic of the Park begins to wash over you with each step you take.”
Ross Castle garden
Mystery solved. Killarney House & Gardens lay hidden behind high walls for decades. The grounds were accessible but the house itself lay neglected. The history of Killarney House seems complex and long. Home to the Earls of Kenmare, it was built in the early 18th century. Known locally as ‘The Mansion’ it was considered one of the finest examples of its kind in Ireland. However, the house fell prey to fire in 1913 and all that remains of it today are the stepped gardens and some of the original gate lodges. Knockreer House now fills the site of the original ‘Killarney House’ from where elevated views of Lough Leane and the McGillycuddy Reeks can be enjoyed.
The much loved Cherry Walk had been a popular pathway to the Knockreer area of the National Park. The website ponders how the obscurity with which the house and gardens descended to were difficult to understand, given proximity to the town. But following extensive renovations in 2016, Killarney House and Gardens is literally open for business…free of charge! The exhibition space in Killarney House is available from 9am to 6pm and from April to September, guided tours take place every 30 minutes. The exhibition space is a gateway to the treasures of the National Park and reveal flora and fauna histories and the efforts made to preserve and nurture. There are also narratives on show which both intrigue and charm. The story of local legends for example. One such tells that O’Sullivan’s waterfall once ran with whiskey instead of water! The Chieftan of the Fianna, Fionn McCumhal, lived on Tomies Mountain above the cascade. His personal supply of whiskey flowed down to the cascade below. The local lord, O’Sullivan of Tomies, who owned the land around the cascade was lucky enough to share Fionn’s whiskey. But when the English invaded Ireland, the whiskey changed to water and became known as O’Sullivan’s Cascade,(Killarney House & Gardens). Killarney has been described as a ‘district unmatched in Europe for its richness in bryophytes and because of this, enthusiasts come from all over the world. Bryophytes are mosses, liverworts and hornworts. They play an important role in regulating ecosystems for other plants which live alongside and benefit from the water and nutrients that bryophytes collect. Unfortunately, today, invasive species such as rhododendron (‘rodos’) and the Sika deer are the main threat to these plants. As they travelled the world, Victorian explorers brought back new exotic plants and animals from Asia, Africa and South America that delighted the public but also created these new threats. Plants such as camellias, lupins, orchids, caught the imagination of the public and added to the prestige of wealthy property owners but alas, the rhododendron proved to be one of the greatest ‘scourges’ in terms of eradication. Numerous schemes are ongoing to rid the landscape of their presence.
What I personally found so wonderful about Killarney House exhibition space is how vibrant the landscape appears and how much care has gone into presenting forests and lakes and all that lies between, in the best possible light. I’ve always thought the woods around Torc (where my husband was born) are just magical. Trees, old as time, continue to thrive. Lush greenery, varying shades of green, all contribute to an other worldly atmosphere. We’ve never taken them for granted. But to look at the in-depth representations in Killarney House has meant falling in love with these trees all over again. It’s a true learning experience and also humbling. Killarney’s National Park is such a treasure that a whole episode of David Attenborough’s ‘Wild Isles’ focused in on the wild life and truly magnificent scenery that can be enjoyed on the 26,000 acres. Hopefully, we will be returning to Killarney for many years to come.
Killarney History and Heritage (Collins Press) by Mike O’Sullivan, which features visiting Romantics in detail is well worth a read.
infokillarneyhouse@housing.gov.ie for further details concerning Killarney House.
Photographs of Killarney National Park courtesy of Valerie O’Sullivan
