Pat Keenan reports on happenings in and around the capital
Maybe it’s because I’m a Dubliner – I’ve always regarded Bloomsday over St.Patrick’s Day as my day of pilgrimage. Originally conceived as a pub crawl celebrating the fiftieth anniversary of Bloomsday, June 16, 1904, the single day James Joyce used in his acclaimed novel Ulysses published in 1922.
On the fiftieth anniversary of that day in 1954, a group of writers and artists traced the route taken by the characters in Ulysses. The group included Anthony Cronin, Brendan Behan, Patrick Kavanagh and Brian O’Nolan (aka Flann O’Brien, Myles na Gopaleen), amongst others.
So in keeping with the day with some of my longtime north side friends, we set off in the noonday sun for the city centre, and in keeping with the mantra of the magazine – for people who don’t act their age. Our bus from Baldoyle arrived in a busy Talbot Street; full of traffic and people, none of them particularly Joycean, no Edwardian carb, no flowery bonnets, bowlers or straw hats. It seems that despite the northside figuring large in Joyce’s life, we need to go south of the Liffey to join in on the celebrations. Heading for a Luas tram in Marlborough Street, one of our group points out a connection to older trams that would have plied Dublin streets on the original Bloomsday – raised lettering with the initials ‘D.U.T.C.O. on a fascia near the top of a redbrick building at 98-100 Marlborough Street. This building was the headquarters of the Dublin United Transport Company, the tram operators in Dublin between 1896 and 1949.
How apt and fitting as we are about to board a Luas tram to take us across the Liffey, past Trinity and to Dawson St. No shortage of Edwardian garb here, crowds gathered around Davy Byrnes on Duke Street, readings and songs, remembering the day Leopold Bloom ‘entered Davy Byrnes. Moral pub. He doesn’t chat. Stands a drink now and then. But in a leap year once in four. Cashed a cheque for me once.’ In the ‘Lestrygonians’ episode, Bloom has a glass of burgundy and a gorgonzola cheese sandwich and a rare chat with the owner, Davy Byrne, about his life and appetites.
All the Duke Street pubs were so busy we mosey on to parallel South Ann Street, found a table and stools outside Keoghes Pub, first licensed in 1803, and watched the world go by over a number of pints, We don’t walk as much as in previous years but this we made up for by downing more pints than even in our formative drinking years. Later, well oiled, we went to soak it up with pizzas and hey, a glass of wine at Milano, 38 Dawson Street (opposite The Mansion House}
Back in Abbey Street waiting for our next H1 to Baldoyle, a pint in the The Flowing Tide, our traditional ‘waiting for a bus’ pub. No excuses are necessary – in Ulysses Joyce names over 70 places in Dublin where you can purchase alcohol. Google tells of a more recent study by money.co.uk, of the cities with the most pubs per people ranks Dublin 8th in world. Miami is next at 9th. Our nearest capital city, London is distant 17th. No.1 is Prague.
Further reading. The Bloomsday Trams: Dublin’s Tramway Fleet of James Joyce’s Ulysses by David Foley. Booksurge Publishing, 2009
Ashe to ashes..
Just this June a man was arrested for maliciously destroying and badly damaging a number of mummified remains in the crypts of St Michan’s vaults in Church Street. A Christian chapel has been on this site since 1095. The current church dates from 1686. The limestone walls in the vaults apparently keep the air dry, so creating ideal conditions for the preservation of the many mummified remains therein. In this recent incident one rare and un-replaceable 800 year old remains of a 6 and a half foot man, his feet and right hand already severed, and popularly known as ‘The Crusader.’ Previously vandals had stolen his head but it was later found and returned.
Other mummified remains include a 400 year old preserved remains of a nun and the remains of brothers Henry and John Sheares who took part in the 1798 rebellion. Also the various holders of the Earl of Leitrim title were interred here including the last one – the notorious Dublin born William Sydney Clements, 3rd Earl of Leitrim, forever remembered in Irish history for the widespread mistreatment of his tenants and their children.
In 1878, after surviving several attempts on his life, he and his driver and a clerk were ambushed and killed in Donegal on his way to Milford, a town he actually fully owned in its entirety. According to his biographer Fiona Slevin, Lord Leitrim was accused of ‘repeatedly violating young girls and of his ‘immorality towards daughters of tenants’
She writes ‘the final straw that motivated the individuals involved was his alleged rape of the daughter of one of his assassins.’ In 1960 a Celtic cross monument was erected at Fanad commemorating McElwee, Shiels, and Michael Heraghty the men who assassinated the tyrannical landlord.
The incident played major element on the plot in The Home Place the 2005 play by Brian Friel
Hugo’s launch a pre-theatre menu..
Hugo’s Restaurant on Merrion Row, with its distinctive robin egg blue Georgian frontage, is still a favourite dining destination for over 15 years. The formula is just the same, a sumptuous and comforting interior, a menu always in keeping with the changes of time and always with fresh seasonal locally sourced ingredients.
They have now launched a new ‘Pre-Theatre Menu’ served from Tuesday to Friday from 5pm to 6.30pm, with two courses for €37.
And, Hugo’s now offer a complimentary sweet treat to complete your Pre Theatre dining experience, called ‘Sweet for the Street,’ an ice cream cone with a choice of strawberry ice cream or apple sorbet.
Sit back and enjoy their complimentary house breads and seaweed butter as you decide which of four starters which include three Carlingford oysters with green apple, cucumber, jalapeno and crème fraiche, and duck liver parfait with toasted brioche, sour cherry chutney, chicory and honey.
And four main courses, Braised Irish Hereford shortrib, served with pomme mousseline, crispy onions, pickled cucumber and red wine jus and wild garlic gnocchi with green asparagus, cured egg yolk and aged parmesan.
Hugo’s’ new lunch menu is available from Tuesday to Friday from 12 midday with last reservation at 3.15pm. The new lunch offering is three ‘Plat du Jour’ with pairing suggestions. Available alongside the A La Carte Lunch Menu, and regularly updated, the menu currently features:
* Roaringwater Bay Mussels €17.50 white wine, garlic, shallot, parsley sourdough toast. Enjoy with De Martino Sauvignon Blanc, Maipo Valley, Chile 2021 €8.75
* Steak Frites €19 6 Oz Sirloin Hereford Prime, skinny fries, sauce béarnaise, watercress. Enjoy with Gouguenheim Malbec €11.25
* Today’s Soup & Sandwich, grilled chicken, lemon mayo, baby leaves, warm ciabatta €12. Add skinny chips or small soup €15. Enjoy with Domaine Montarels, Chardonnay, Côtes de Thonge, Languedoc Roussillon ‘21 €11.50
HUGO’S, 6 Merrion Row, Dublin 2, D02 T657 Tel: 01-676 5955. Email : info@hugos.ie
And Pichet celebates its 15th anniversary…
Paul Sherwood Photography
paul@sherwood.ie
Stephen Gibson fulfilled a life-long dream of running his own restaurant. Fifteen years ago he opened Pichet–Modern French Restaurant on Trinity Street. After years working in many countries at every level of cuisine, up to three star Michelin, Stephen wanted to present his own personal preference: ‘nice, simple food’ that tasted really good. Awards and accolades quickly followed, and their ‘Crispy Hens Egg’ became a must for the savvy Dublin diner.
‘Reflecting on 15 years of Pichet this year’ says Stephen, ‘I am filled with immense pride and gratitude. This milestone is a testament to the hard work, passion and dedication of our entire team over the years who strive daily to create exceptional culinary experiences in Dublin City. It’s been an incredible journey filled with countless memories, challenges, and triumphs. We have grown and evolved, but our commitment to delivering innovative and delicious dishes remains. As we celebrate this significant anniversary, we look forward to the future with excitement and anticipation, eager to continue crafting unforgettable dining experiences. Here’s to many more years of sharing our passion for food and hospitality with all of you.’
The classic brasserie style décor of Pichet evokes Gallic charm, whether you’re enjoying drinks and snacks at the bar, or lingering over creatively classic dishes at a lunch or dinner. Located on Trinity Street in the heart of the city, as soon as you step through the doors, you leave the hustle and bustle behind and relax! The chic interior, wonderful food and effortless service all combine to create a restaurant that has won many awards and countless loyal regulars over the years.
Chef Patron Stephen Gibson and Head Chef Harry Quinn are at the forefront of modern Irish cuisine,
Pichet Restaurant, 14-15 Trinity Street, Dublin 2. Telephone 01 6771060 www.pichet.ie
